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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. But, situated near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.